“You must understand that what he was making then was really unheard of,” Ms. Fisher said in a phone interview from her home in Rome. Repurposing vintage designs, showing his clothes on non-models, refusing to talk to the press, Mr. Margiela became an enigma, often offending reporters with his provocative stance. After his first show, a Belgian newspaper published a picture of Mr. Margiela covering his face with his hand. “His third show was on the outskirts of Paris, in a poor neighborhood,” Ms. Fisher recalled. “It was a fantastic show, but the newspaper Libération said it was scandalous.” It’s not that Mr. Margiela never tried to fit in. There were some early interviews and appearances, but it is Ms. Fisher’s view that he found the circus not to his taste.